A woman in pursuit of beauty does not stop at anything, often deciding to take extreme measures to correct the wrong shapenose, cheekbones, lips with the help of plastic. But to sacrifice oneself is only in extreme cases, and for everything else there is a make-up. Sculpting a face is a perfect example of how using cosmetics can change your appearance beyond recognition, remaining natural.
This technique is not new and has been very popular for many years among the stars of cinema and show business, as well as the most ordinary representatives of the weaker sex. Opponents have enough sculpting too. They believe that with his help, girls adjust their appearance to a single standard and look like one like plastic dolls.
It should be said that the correct use of the sculptural contouring technique not only hides shortcomings and corrects the face oval, but it will also emphasize all the individual features of the exterior, make the traits more precise, expressive, and vivid.
Features of facial sculpting
This is a special technique for applying makeup, which uses the most ordinary cosmetics: tonal remedies, blushers, correctors and highlighter, but at once in several shades, successfully combined among themselves and carefully shaded. It is through this that the person acquires a bump and expressiveness, and a good make-up artist can be compared to a real sculptor.
There is nothing surprising in that the birthplace of sculptural contouring is Hollywood: make-up and make-up actresses in conjunction with the correct lighting gives rise to fantastic images of film stars that have little in common with reality but win the hearts of the audience. And today the basis of contouring is the correct illumination of the face, make-up seems to catch a successful angle of light and shadow falling, fixing it.
For each type of face there are their own sculpting schemes. With their help, you can significantly adjust the face oval, make it narrower or longer, smooth out too sharp corners, and give relief to certain areas. The technique itself is difficult to master for the first time to non-professionals, but constant training will sharpen the skill, and make-up will take only a few minutes.
Basics of sculpture
The ability to spend time in the morning to apply a variety of shades of cosmetics with their subsequent thorough shading is not every girl. But you will agree that simply covering your face with tonal remedy, hiding pimples, specks or moles under it, is not enough, it will just look like a mask. Therefore, it is important to know the basics of sculpting, dosing the amount and intensity of colors of cosmetics for a specific case.
You can apply the basics of this makeup to highlight specific areas, for example, make the nose thinner, the cheekbones higher, and the chin already. Before applying the technique to yourself, it is important to follow a set of recommendations:
- Define the type of face. Do this in front of the mirror with the hair gathered in the tail. The easiest way is to draw a contour of the face in the mirror with lipstick or pencil, and the result is related to a suitable geometric figure: an oval or a circle, a square or a triangle, a diamond or a trapezoid.
- Choose the means for sculpting, the closest in color to the natural tone of the skin.
- Before applying cosmetics, carefully prepare the skin by cleaning it, moisturizing it. Basic means will help to apply makeup more smoothly, will make it more resistant.
Basic rules of sculpture
Sculpting a face is a real art, therefore it is important to approach it creatively, diligently and accurately. The consequences of haste or negligence will immediately be noticeable, and the face will acquire an unnatural appearance.
The main rule of contouring is thorough feathering. All the transitions between the means of different shades should be soft, smooth, inconspicuous, otherwise a set of color spots will appear, simulating a war paint of an Indian.
Schemes or lessons are recommendatory in nature and can not be 100% used by absolutely all girls, even with the same type of person. So use them as a basis, making changes based on the characteristics of your appearance, focusing on the merits.
The means for sculptural modeling are cosmetics and brushes for its shading. Both must be present in the cosmetic bag.
There are a lot of modeling brushes, among this variety it is necessary to choose in the first place those that will work comfortably. Among all types of brushes it is necessary to distinguish several basic ones:
- A flat semicircular brush is ideal for applying cosmetics, but not for its shading.
- With bevelled cut. Thick, broad are used for feathering of funds on the cheekbones, narrower for the wings of the nose.
- Dome - a thick and wide brush, which well shades the boundaries of different shades. With its help, you can also apply and shade friable correction agents, for example, blush or powder.
- Kabuki - a thick brush with a flat cut perfectly blurs the boundaries, providing a smooth, inconspicuous transition.
- An egg-shaped sponge( butterfly).The sharp end is applied corrective means to hard-to-reach places, and the wide one provides an ideal feathering.
Cosmetics for modeling the face shape
Almost every modern manufacturer of decorative cosmetics, both premium and economy class, presents sets for sculpting, in which several shades of corrective means, optimally combined, have already been selected.
Most often, the sculpture pallet is oriented to a specific color appearance, so it is more suitable for the obvious representatives of spring, summer, autumn, winter. But alas, not every girl among many such sets will be able to pick the perfect one for herself: 1-2 shades will turn out to be too light, dark or bright, this is the sin of many manufacturers. The best way out of this situation is to assemble your own palette from the appropriate shades.
When assembling your kit, remember:
- The base must be exceptionally matte, the gloss can be applied only in the area of the cheekbones, and then in a reasonable amount.
- To model the face, use three shades:
- light base, matching in tone with a natural shade of skin;
- dark base natural shade 1-2 tone darker;
- with retro-reflective particles( shimmer, highlighter or bronzer) for highlighting individual areas, applying glare or highlighting cheekbones. The highlighter should be lighter than the basis of 1-2 tone, and the bronzer is darker.
- The type of skin depends on the texture and type of makeup for contouring:
- Creamy( foundation, correctors, cream powder or blush) - Suitable for dry and normal skin. Such funds during the day are absorbed into the skin, making the makeup look more natural. Correctors need to be used carefully, because they have a very dense texture that can stand out from the rest of the funds, they are best used for make-up in the cold season.
- Powdery( powder, blush) - ideal for girls with oily or combination skin. It is best to use matte funds, concealing a greasy shine. Loose cosmetics are easy to shade, it takes less time to make-up.
Blush for sculpting should be selected based on its color, as well as shades used in make-up, they should be in harmony with each other. When using contouring, use at least two shades of blush: light and dark. It is better to buy a special contouring blush, they differ in dark tones, and are used solely to correct the shape of the face, but not to give it a blush.
With a light correction of the face, it is sufficient to apply the base, lightly powder it, to select the necessary areas with a bronzer and highlighter.
If the bronzer is used directly to correct the shape of the face, then it must be matte. This tool can replace the dark tonal basis. Bronzer easily disguises freckles, will give the skin a healthy, tanned appearance. With its help you can make a smooth transition from face to neck.
For oily skin, the highlighter should be replaced with white matte eye shadow.
The main purpose of sculpting is the approximation of the shape of the face to the ideal, that is, oval. But apart from this - the allocation of certain areas, giving facial features expressiveness, relief. Therefore, sculpture modeling is recommended to girls as a round, square or triangular face, and owners of the ideal oval.
With the help of sculpting an oval face you can give new features by highlighting the cheekbones, nose, chin. Correction is not needed, but the relief will make the image more sensual, fatal, mysterious:
- Isolation of cheekbones. Draw your lips, put a dark shade on the formed cavities under the cheekbones. The area above the shadow is highlighted in the lightest tone. All shade and highlight a bright area haylayterom.
- Cheeks a la Kim Kardashian. After konturinga put on the speakers with a smile apples a little shimmer or highlighter.
- Elegant chin. With a fine brush, mark the outline with a dark tone, then shade the boundaries of the dome. The central area of the chin should be emphasized by a highlighter, creating a light flare.
- Aristocratic nose. A small amount of dark tone is distributed around the edges of the nose, and the backlight is highlighted.
- Sensual lips. With a thin brush with a light tone, draw your lips along the contour. Use a soft brush in the direction from the lips, trying not to touch the area on the border with the skin. In the hole above the upper lip, apply a drop of hailer.
- Fresh look. Under eyebrows to put the most light tone, shading aside eyes. In the end, emphasize hylayterom.
Chubby girls are often complexed because of plump cheeks and too smooth features without pronounced boundaries. Make the face already, more serious, give texture and angularity help contouring:
- Shadows should be placed on the sides, which will help to narrow the face. Make cheeks less rounded will help applying a dark tone in the form of an arc with the center near the ear. The arc should pass along the cheek, not reaching 2-3 cm of the nose.
- To make the face less flat it is possible due to contouring in the area of the lips and nose. The lightest tone is applied to the triangular area, bounded by the outer corners of the eye and lips. The same tone is applied to the triangle formed by the bridge of the nose and the beginning of the eyebrows. On the sides of the nose apply a dark tone.
- Make chin graceful by semicircular brush strokes in the center and on the sides. You can not use shimmers and mother-of-pearl hyllayers, only matte tools!
To make the square face narrower, elongated and smooth the following tricks will help:
- All projecting corners on the contour of the face are masked in a dark tone, and the central part is lightened( the line from the center of the forehead to the chin).
- Pulling out the cheeks will help applying a dark tone in the form of a triangle with peaks at the temple, under the earlobe and the middle of the cheek. The area of the cheekbone under the outer corner of the eye should be highlighted. On apples of cheeks to put light blush of pink, beige or peach shade.
- A bright nose and an area near it will make the face more inviting and longer. In this case, it is better to darken the wings.
- When correcting the face shape, horizontal lines should be avoided, all means must be applied vertically or at an angle, moving up and down.
Depending on where the vertex of the triangular face is directed( up or down), its correction is also performed.
The face with a wide forehead and a sharp chin needs to be smoothed and balance the difference in width:
- On all projecting on the contour area, apply a dark tone, shading it and giving the face a rounded shape.
- Smooth the chin will help applying a dark tone to its center and light on the edges.
- Shade on the cheeks applied in the form of a diamond.
The combination of a narrow forehead and a broad lower jaw complete with a weak chin is not so common, with correction it is important to darken the bottom, trying to hide the sharp corners:
Focus on the upper part of the face, highlighting on the sides of the forehead, and also highlighting the eyes and eyebrows withusing a bright make-up.
From the middle of the ear to the center of the lower jaw, everything should be darkened, a light tone is applied to the cheekbones and the temples.
The diamond-shaped face
The face in the form of a diamond or diamond, as make-up artists like to call it, needs correction less than others, if you rely on modern trends: narrow chin and forehead, pronounced cheekbones, chiseled relief.
In this case, you can either soften the contour, trying to bring it closer to the oval shape, or, conversely, emphasize the features even more, giving the face sharpness, sculpture.
The same sculpting technique that is used for the triangular face will help to smooth the sharp corners, except for applying dark tones in the forehead area.
If you want to highlight the cheekbones even more, focusing on them, use blush and tools for sculptural modeling.
Following these simple recommendations, you can always count on a neat and natural make-up, as well as avoid common mistakes:
- When applying powdery substances, always shake off excess from the brush, it is much easier to add more than to wash and shade the already applied makeup.
- Cream agents must first be applied to the hand, when they become warmer, it will be more convenient to use them.
- The line of blackout of the cheekbones should in no case extend to the lips and especially to the chin, this is often the sin of make-up artists. Such a reception in real life looks rough and sharp. The optimal distance is two fingers from the corner of the mouth.
- You can disguise wrinkles with the help of a highlighter, applied in depth and carefully shaded.
- The double chin will become less noticeable if you darken it.
- Dark circles under the eyes need to be brightened after applying the base, shading the boundaries.
- When applying a highlighter it is important not to overdo it, otherwise the face will unnaturally shine.
- At contouring it is necessary to work out the shape of eyebrows, selecting it in accordance with the type of face. For makeup it is better to use powder or shade, so that the line of eyebrows looks natural. It is also important to highlight the area above the eyebrow and under it, this will refresh the look.
- Make the eyes and lips more expressive also help the highlighter. It should be applied to the inner corner of the eye, as well as in the area above the upper and lower lip.
For those who do not risk putting heavy make-up on their faces, preferring to nude, but desperately wanting to acquire chiselled features, there is also a way out. Sculptured facial massage from Joelle Siocco.
With it, you can tighten the facial muscles, make the contour of the face more pronounced, adjust wrinkles. Of course, this technique in terms of effectiveness will not replace the contouring with the help of make-up, but the face will always look fresh, tightened and shining.
The procedure can be done in the salon of a cosmetologist or independently, having mastered several lessons. It's best to start sculpturing massage after 25 years, when a certain lifting effect is required.
Massage Joelle Siocco - video